Power flickers can leave household appliances in a confused state. One of the most common complaints we hear after a brief outage is that the ice maker suddenly stops working. This usually happens without warning and can feel frustrating. If your freezer is still cold but no new ice is forming, the problem may seem minor, but the fix can vary depending on how your ice maker reset or stalled during the flicker.
Let’s break down why this happens and what steps you can take to get your ice maker running again without guesswork or wasted time.
Check the Power Supply to the Ice Maker
Start by confirming that the ice maker has power. Sometimes, a flicker can trip a control board or disable an internal switch.
Most ice makers rely on a specific circuit within the refrigerator. If that circuit was interrupted, the ice maker may be unresponsive even though the rest of the fridge works fine. Try unplugging the fridge for five minutes, then plug it back in. This often resets the onboard system and allows the ice maker to resume its normal cycle.
Avoid turning the fridge off at the breaker unless instructed in the manual. Power cycling directly through the outlet is safer. If a reset does not work, look at the control panel. Some fridges have a separate button for resetting or turning the ice maker on or off.
For more guidance on common fridge issues like this, you can read about our fridge repair in Burbank.
Make Sure the Ice Maker Arm or Sensor is Not Blocked
Sometimes the issue is not electrical but mechanical. Most ice makers have a small arm or optical sensor that detects when the bin is full. After a power flicker, the arm or sensor might become stuck in the “off” position, even if there’s no ice in the tray.
If the arm is stuck up or blocked by a chunk of ice, gently lower it or move the obstruction. Don’t force it. This should trigger the machine to start another cycle once conditions are stable. If you see any frost buildup or loose cubes, clear them out so nothing blocks the mechanism.
In models with electronic sensors instead of arms, wiping the sensor with a soft cloth can help. Dust, moisture, or frost can cause a false reading, preventing a new batch from starting.
Inspect the Water Line and Inlet Valve
Next, confirm that water is reaching the ice tray. A quick way to tell is to check the water dispenser if your fridge has one. If no water comes out, the ice maker cannot fill either.
Power flickers sometimes cause inlet valves to lock or misfire. Disconnect the fridge briefly and reconnect. If that does not work, remove the bottom rear panel and inspect the water valve. Listen for a quiet hum when the ice cycle starts. No sound could mean the valve is stuck or burned out.
Also, check the water supply line for kinks or ice blockages. A frozen inlet line is more common in cold garages or homes with inconsistent temperatures. If the line is clogged, carefully defrost it with warm air—not boiling water—to prevent damage.
If the valve needs replacement or you’re unsure, it might be time to speak with someone who handles appliance repair in Burbank.
Test the Ice Maker Motor and Gears
After restoring power and checking for water, look at the moving parts. The motor and gears in the ice maker control tray rotation and ice ejection. When a flicker happens mid-cycle, the motor might stall or lock into a jammed position.
Try manually rotating the gear using a safe tool if the cover is removable. If it moves freely, the motor may just need a reset. But if the motor seems stuck or spins loosely without resistance, it might be worn out or broken.
Buzzing or clicking noises without movement suggest the motor is receiving power but failing to complete its task. That’s a good sign it may need repair or replacement.
Use the Built-In Test Button (If Available)
Some refrigerators include a test or diagnostic button on the ice maker. It’s often a small circle behind a plastic panel or under the ice tray. Pressing and holding it can trigger a test cycle where the tray fills, freezes, and dumps.
During a test, listen for clicking, water movement, and motor operation. If everything runs smoothly, then the issue may have just needed a reset. But if nothing happens, or the test stops halfway through, there may be a deeper control issue or hardware fault.
If your model doesn’t include a button, look for an on/off switch and toggle it instead. This sometimes mimics a manual reset without accessing a dedicated test mode.
Examine the Temperature in the Freezer
Freezer temperature must be low enough for ice to form. If the power flicker caused the thermostat to misread or reset, your freezer might no longer stay at the needed range. Ice makers typically need temperatures below 15°F to function properly.
Use a thermometer placed near the ice tray, not just on the freezer wall. Readings in the 10–12°F range are ideal. If the temperature is above 20°F, the ice will melt before it finishes forming. This prevents cycling and leads to puddles in the tray or no production at all.
If your temperature seems off, try adjusting the freezer control a few notches lower. Give it a full day to stabilize, then check again. Sudden shifts in temperature often delay recovery time.
You can also reach out to a local technician for a fridge and freezer checkup to confirm consistent cooling.
Replace a Faulty Control Board
In some cases, especially with digital fridges, the control board is the issue. Power flickers can disrupt stored settings or burn out microcomponents. If none of the earlier steps help, and your display looks normal but the ice maker remains dead, this might be the root cause.
Unfortunately, this isn’t something most people can test at home. Boards are specific to each model and require careful handling. If lights blink oddly, or buttons don’t respond, that’s another sign the board might be damaged.
You don’t have to figure it out alone. When in doubt, scheduling an appliance repair service call is the best way to get a clean diagnosis and avoid guessing.
Try a Full 24-Hour Defrost
If you suspect the problem might be frost buildup, one helpful step is to unplug the fridge for 24 hours. Leave the freezer door open with towels nearby to absorb water. This clears any hidden ice blocks inside air vents, water lines, or fan pathways.
While inconvenient, this method often resets airflow and drainage issues without the need for parts. After plugging the fridge back in, wait another 6–12 hours before expecting ice production to resume.
This step helps in cases where power loss disrupted the defrost cycle or led to minor freezer malfunctions. If results improve, continue monitoring for noise or water drips. Repeat this process every few months if it prevents future trouble.
Final Check: Is the Ice Tray Cracked or Warped?
One thing many people overlook is the tray itself. If the ice maker tries to cycle but fails to eject or refill, inspect the tray closely.
Cracks, bends, or loose seating prevent the unit from working right. Water may leak out early or fail to freeze in the right shape. Plastic trays can shift slightly after a power event, especially if the freezer gets unusually warm or cold during the outage.
Try gently lifting and re-seating the tray. If it rocks or sits unevenly, realign it. If it’s cracked, consider ordering a replacement from your model’s manufacturer. Don’t tape over damage, as this can interfere with motor rotation and cause more wear.
FAQ
Why did my ice maker stop after a power flicker but the fridge is still cold?
The ice maker has its own sensors and cycles that can fail independently. A flicker may interrupt those even if cooling stays on.
How long does it take for the ice maker to reset after power returns?
Most models resume ice production within a few hours. If no ice appears in 12–24 hours, further steps may be needed.
Can a blown fuse stop the ice maker?
Yes. Some fridges have a fuse or dedicated switch for the ice maker. If that blew during the flicker, it must be replaced.
Should I replace the whole ice maker if it stops working?
Only after checking for resets, jams, water issues, and power faults. Most cases can be fixed without replacing the full unit.
Is it safe to unplug the fridge to reset the ice maker?
Yes, unplugging for five minutes is a safe way to reset. Avoid flipping the breaker unless the manual recommends it.